In what was becoming something of
an annual excursion Owen and I had planned another weekend on the continent
with both military history and music on the itinerary.
Yet another old punk band was due
to play at the ‘Eurorock Festival’ in Neerpelt in Belgium. The timing could not
have been better since the ‘Fragmented Military History’ website had progressed
considerably such that I had left Normandy and the 59th
(Staffordshire) Division behind and was now immersed in the actions of the
Polar Bears in Belgium and Holland.
The town of Breda was to be our
base for the next three days from where we would drive in each and every
direction in order to visit Turnhout, Wuustwezel, Roosendaal, Arnhem, Nijmegen,
Bemmel, Haalderen and Walcheran. A check on the mileometer upon arriving back in
London told us that we had clocked up no less than two thousand miles over the
three days, mostly in the Netherlands (no mean feat in a country so small!).
Whilst
we were planning to see a punk band (Killing Joke, were anyone to be remotely
curious) our chosen base was this weekend hosting the annual Breda Jazz
Festival. Now I fully appreciate that when it comes to musical taste it is
definitely a case of ‘each to their own’. But without a doubt both Owen and I side
with Johnny Rotten over Johnny Dankworth! So when a well-meaning waitress in
the breakfast room on day two suggested that we were here for the jazz we were
a little put out! Casting an eye over the finger poppin’ jazz aficionados of
northern Europe that were at that time sharing the restaurant, it was clear to
the two of us at least that a wide gulf existed between us and them.
Nevertheless in a middle aged punk rock style we corrected her and complimented
the chef on the quality of his scrambled eggs. How times have changed!
Caught unawares in a lift finger
clicking and ‘extolling the joy of jazz!’.
On our
first venture out on our first full day of touring was the town of Turnhout. Strangely
enough thid was not our first visit to this town in the far north of Belgium.
Back in April 2011 the two of us in the company of another couple of fans had
stayed in Turnhout. The band had arranged a five day acoustic tour of Belgium
and Holland of which we planned to witness three, Turnhout, Zaandamn and
Lessines.
Now
Turnhout is a small place, but locating our apartment took over an hour. I am
happy to say that the concert was very enjoyable but after the show we headed
out of toen in the direction of the band’s hotel with a view to grabbing a late
beer with them. Within minutes of us setting off, the band’s mini-bus speed
past us and the ever truculent bass player took the time to hurl some choice
words of abuse at us as they passed (it’s nothing personal, we were on the
guest list after all!).
In 2011
I hand no idea that this place had any significance to my own family history.
All I felt at the time was a sense of frustration as we repeatedly failed to
locate our apartment after several traverses of the town. The realisation that
my Grandfather was a liberator of the town was a few years off!
Next up
was Wuustwezel, another difficult place name for linguistically challenged
Britons such as ourselves. Having said that in the spirit of our forebears who
renamed Ypres as Wipers and Foucquevillers as Funkyvillers, Wuustwezel was
rechristened to a very anglicised ‘Worst Weasel’…. no offence intended towards
our Belgian neighbours, it just made navigation much easier!
Having
reached the town as usual we made for the cemetery and here were located the
first 11th R.S.F. graves that I had seen since the Fontenay-le-Pesnel
cemetery the previous year.
Nine Polar Bears lie in the
churchyard of Wuustwezel.
During
the fighting to liberate Wuustwezel between 20th and 23rd
October 1944, 108 British servicemen were killed in action or died of wounds
received. Of these men 98 wore the Polar Bear insignia of the 49th
(West Riding) Division.
The
fallen are commemorated by a memorial erected to their memory in Liberation
Square, Wuustwezel. The monument carries the following inscription that attests
to their heroic deeds:
‘In this
area, the German counter-attacks of 21st and 22nd October
1944 were halted by the 49th (West Riding) Infantry Division. The
people of Wuustwezel express gratitude to their liberators’.
At the
unveiling ceremony on 21st October 1984, the Burgomaster of
Wuustwezel, Jos Ansoms said this of the momument and what it represents, ‘It is
a sober monument, sober and simple as the lads of whom it reminds us. It is
convincing and dignified like the British military that are remembered.
Constructed in a “V”, it represents victory but also peace, freedom and
friendship’.
The
Wuustwezel memorial is now recognised as the principal site of remembrance to
the Polar Bears in Belgium. Whilst less imposing than its cousin in
Fontenay-le-Pesnel, its understated simplicity makes it every bit as moving.
The aforementioned sober simplicity of this construction of brick and stone
surmounted with a stylised French limestone sculpture of a Polar Bear contrasts
starkly with the Bofors 40mm anti-aircraft gun that also occupies the site, a
contribution of the Polar Bear Association in 2009.
The Polar Bear memorial
Wuustwezel, Belgium.
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